While many fit issues and principles are the same between men and women, FFRP was very far away from me on the fit continuum — mostly aimed at issues faced by plus-size, often busty women. But it was too much effort to try to put that discussion through a mental filter to glean the ideas and principles that are meaningful to me, while trying to digest the material at the same time. And so I was looking for a book that treats men on an equal basis with women. How to Make Sewing Patterns was one of the recommendations. The process begins with an extensive set of instructions on how to make measurements, with separate instructions for measurements specific to men as well as women. And the book deserves special mention for describing special techniques for measuring yourself, if you do not have someone else available to help with measurements.

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Photographs of gingham fitting shells can be used for highly accurate fittings. You can fit Slopers on a person regardless of where they are located. Even friends and family who might live in a different part of the world.

By using a tripod and timed or remote shutter release these photos are perfect for do-it-yourself fittings. Optimizing the Pants Pattern for Tummies Tummies can easily change the way pants hang on the body.

Instructions are included for how to adjust the Pants Sloper for a custom fit regardless of the size of the tummy. This shows a muslin fitting shell made from a Pants Sloper before the adjustment is made for the tummy.

This shows a pair of pants made for the same body using a Pants Sloper that has been adjusted. Positioning Pattern Paper Determining how to place pattern paper on a Sloper to develop a new design can require some trial and error. The illustrations for the pattern alteration techniques in the 2nd edition include rectangles that show what happens as the pattern paper is pivoted to create the new shapes.

More on Knits The instructions in the book show how to create and fit Slopers for woven fabric. Woven fabric, like paper, can only bend in one direction at a time. In order for the fabric to match the three-dimensional contours of the body, the fabric needs to be shaped by either darts or seams. Furthermore most garments made from woven material need a closing device such as zippers or buttons.

Knit fabrics are different because they can assume a three dimensional shape. The Sloper patterns for woven fabric can be modified to accomondate this quality of knit fabric.

Examples include how to create tops, raglan sleeves, leggings, and circular skirts that have no opening device. Close Fitting Pants The instructions for the Pants Sloper are for a slacks cut that includes a leg hanging straight down from the torso. This loose leg is the best way to verify that the shaping of the torso portion and the crotch curve of the pants are correct for the body. Instructions are included in this new edition to show how that slacks cut can be modified to create close fitting pants and even leggings.

When you create Slopers you are working from circumference measurements for the full body, such as the bust and waist. But Slopers only need to be for half the front or half the back. This means the circumference measurements need to be divided by four. Scale Rulers eliminate the need for you to do the head math saving time and eliminating potential errors. Instructions are included for how to make scale rulers in either inches or centimeters. In addition to drafting the Slopers, these Scale Rulers can be used for a variety of pattern design applications.


Book Review: “How To Make Sewing Patterns”, by Donald H. McCunn

Talk about frustrating! This book, an old-time classic by Donald H McCunn, means you will never have this problem ever again. How to Make Sewing Patterns is one of these books. Instead it shows you how to draft any clothing style from the basics. To get the perfect pattern fit you need to know the size you are aiming for, after all not many of us are a perfect factory size!


How to Make Sewing Patterns – Book Review


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