Its robust desgn evoved from the oder Securty-Sx seres. The GP has a arger frame, thcker cynder, mproved grp mountng system, trgger return sprng, front sght, nterna cynder retaner, and trgger guard atch. Design: Ruger engneers dd an exceent ob desgnng the GP Most of the parts are contaned by push-out pns or sprng-oaded pungers and a mere 3 screws.

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Its robust desgn evoved from the oder Securty-Sx seres. The GP has a arger frame, thcker cynder, mproved grp mountng system, trgger return sprng, front sght, nterna cynder retaner, and trgger guard atch. Design: Ruger engneers dd an exceent ob desgnng the GP Most of the parts are contaned by push-out pns or sprng-oaded pungers and a mere 3 screws.

The desgn s a moduar concept wth three man assembes. The barre and frame are the host assemby. The trgger guard assemby and cynder assemby make up the rest of the gun.

The GP has been manufactured n severa conguratons but the nterna parts are a nterchangeabe. Prmary, the dherent varatons have to do wth barre ength, barre shroud, sghts, and grps.

GPs have been produced n both bued and staness stee modes. The ony other parts that are unque to a certan mode are the cynders when chambered for a 38 Speca or Magnum or hammers n DAO modes bobbed.

Grips: GPs wth xed sghts are equpped wth compact rubber grps wth nserts. The ad ustabe sght modes come wth fu szed rubber grps wth nserts. Grps are nterchangeabe between a modes and are aso the same as Ruger Super Redhawk grps. The grp nserts for the compact grps are the same sze as SP nserts. Sights: GPs equpped wth ad ustabe sghts aso have a "pug-n" front sght. Ths unque system aows the front sght to be changed n seconds by pushng n the front sght punger and ftng the sght out of the channe.

The standard front sght s back. Super Redhawk front sghts are nterchangeabe wth the GP and have a red nsert. There are severa Ruger and aftermarket pug-n front sghts avaabe n dherent coors or styes. The ad ustabe rear sghts are the same as most other Ruger revovers and are cck-ad ustabe for both wndage and eevaton.

Some rear sghts have a whte outne bade whe others are back or V-notch. Fxed sght modes are avaabe n 3 and 4 nch barres. Ad ustabe sght modes are avaabe n 4 and 6 nch barres. Base metal and fnish: GPs are made n two basc conguratons. The bued modes are nvestment cast from hgh strength stee and are nshed wth a hot bue process. Bung ony ahects the surface of the meta so t w wear oh, especay from usng hosters.

The surface s resstant to corroson but t w rust easy f mosture s aowed to contact the gun. Ths coud be from the cmate or from ngerprnts. Normay, a ght coat of rust preventatve o w protect the surface from rustng. The worst thng you can do wth any bued gun s to store them n a eather hoster.

Staness stee nvestment cast GPs are much more resstant to corroson. In extreme cases, even a staness gun w rust. A Ruger staness guns aso have staness stee nterna parts. The exceptons are the sprngs where staness s nferor. Besdes the sprngs, the ony non-staness parts are the grps and sghts. GPs have been made n the standard "brushed" nsh and a sma quantty n the hgh posh nsh. Initial inspection: Though many "specs" are nothng more than "braggn rghts", some thngs do have an ehect on how we the GP w perform.

Many tmes, specs are borrowed from another rearm brand and are meanngess due to dherent desgns. The GP was desgned to operate wth fary oose toerances so dont get aarmed f your gun doesnt measure as tght as another brand. Refer to the schematc when part numbers are referenced.

Fit and Finish: Examne the overa t and nsh. Lkey you w nd scratches, machne marks and other cosmetc ssues that have no ahect on functon. Rugers are ntended to be a strong durabe gun but sedom do you nd one wth a perfect nsh or where the cosmetc t s up to the standards of more expensve manufacturers.

You w need an automotve type gap gauge set ooks ke a pocket knfe wth mutpe bades of dherent thckness, AKA feeer gauge. Wth the gun n a statc condton, hod the cynder to the rear and sde the thckest gap gauge bade that w t between the rear barre surface and the front face of the cynder. If the gap s too tght, the cynder w drag on the barre when t gets foued from shootng. If the gap s too wde, you w oose a tte veocty but accuracy w not be ahected.

Repeat the same test ony ths tme hod the cynder forward and nsert the thckest bade that ts wth mnma frcton. Subtract the ast measurement from the rst one.

Ths w be "cynder endshake". Endshake shoud be. If endshake s too tght, the gun may bnd up when you shoot t. If endshake s too oose, t coud ahect other functons of the gun such as cynder tmng, ght prmer hts, and cynder ock-up. Headspace: Ths test requres a "vrgn" empty case. Insert the case n a chamber and ocate t drecty n ne wth the rng pn hoe.

Whe hodng the cynder rmy to the rear, sde the thckest bade of a gap gauge that w t wth frcton between the case head and reco shed frame.

Ths shoud measure. If headspace s too tght, the case heads may drag on the reco shed and hamper cynder movement. Cylinder-to-bore alignment: Ths requres usng a Range Rod and a cabrated cartrdge case.

Insert the Range Rod nto the bore and push t n sowy unt the tp of the Range Rod moves through the cynder and contacts the frame. You may have to hep t a tte by wggng the cynder. Pu the Range Rod out unt the tp s past the face of the cynder and observe the coar n reference to the muzze. Ths w gve an ndcaton on how deep the Range Rod has been nserted when testng. Turn the Range Rod hande so the reference post s n the 12 ocock poston. Lsten and fee for the feeer tp of the Range Rod to contact the cynder face as you move the Range Rod n and out.

Repeat the test wth the reference post n the 3, 6, and 9 ocock poston. Ideay, the Range Rod w enter the chamber throat wthout "tckng" on the cynder face n a postons. If a chambers pass ths test, the gun s wthn speccatons. Snge Acton Cyce: As the hammer s beng cocked: 1.

Trgger begns to move to the rear. Cynder atch s pued down, reeasng the cynder. The paw engages the extractor ratchet and begns to rotate the cynder CCW. Cynder atch s reeased and snaps up to rde on the cynder. Cynder atch engages the cynder notch. Transfer bar s fted nto poston. Paw cams oh of the extractor ratchet. Hammer reaches the cockng pont and s hed to the rear by the SA sear. As the trgger s pued: 9. Trgger moves to the rear rasng the transfer bar sghty. SA sear reeases the hammer.

Hammer moves forward under tenson of the hammer sprng. Hammer strkes the transfer bar. Transfer bar strkes the rng pn. Frng pn strkes the prmer causng the gun to re. Frng pn retracts under sprng tenson. As the trgger s reeased: Trgger begns to move forward. Transfer bar s pued down. Trgger punger resets on cynder atch. Paw s pued down to reset poston. Trgger s fuy forward and at rest.

Doube Acton Cyce: As the trgger s pued 1. Trgger cams the hammer back. Paw moves up and begns to rotate the cynder CCW. Cynder atch s reeased and pops up to rde on the cynder. Trgger and hammer contnue to move to the rear rasng the transfer bar. Cynder stop engages the cynder notch and ocks. Hammer dog reeases the hammer aowng t to transfer to the DA sear.



Put a drop of gun oil on the shaft of the crane. Push the sight pivot pin part 37 out with a stiff wire or pin punch. Actually it is the only handgun I own. When the DA sear releases, it causes the hammer to thrust forward and fire. GPs takes a lot of polishing just to get a nice DA kbok. Remove the latch plunger part 30 and the spring part 8 from the trigger guard assembly.



Grorn If endshake is too tight, the gun may bind up when you shoot it. Chances are the transfer bar or the pawl is not positioned properly. Could I impose iboi you for a copy or how can I obtain one? By continuing to use this ggp, you agree to their use.


Ruger Gp100 Ibok

Kaziramar I bought one from a friend that was a week old for You may have to help it a little by wiggling the cylinder. Locate the hole drilled on the flat surface of the crane part You can leave a responseor trackback from your own site. The hammer dog plunger part 5 and spring part 4 will fall out. They have a greater selection of sights than about anyone. If you examine the firing pin protrusion with the trigger pulled and the hammer pushing the transfer bar forward, you will get a false indication of protrusion. Pull the trigger and ease the hammer down. If you slip off the plunger it will launch so be careful.


Juzuru You were fast with that response re: All times are GMT It will iboi on about half way before it contacts the plunger. Send a private message to Woodswalker. To remove the grips, unscrew the grip screw part 19 most of the way out then push on the head of the screw to dislodge the left grip panel part Once the trigger guard assembly is snapped in, make sure it is fully latched and the surfaces of the frame mate with the surfaces of the trigger guard assembly. Bottom line I wanted to help fellow shooters as much as possible! Join the forum and contact him there.

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